Spilling The Beans

Here is what I have learned about Fair Trade Coffee while I was in Guatemala:
It would appear that Fair Trade is a bit of a sham. It is not the Knight in Shining Armour which has been portrayed to us java guzzlers here in the industrialized world. Basically, in order to be Fair Trade Certified, any coffee producers must pay 2000 Euros to purchase a coffee license. All products carrying the Fairtrade mark must meet certain standards set by the international body, Fairtrade Labelling Organisations International (FLO.) This is obviously a pretty good thing since standards are needed in order to ensure quality control and avoid abuse and corruption within the system. However, with poor communities such as Nueva Alianza, paying 2000 Euros PER YEAR to be part of the FLO is a little beyond their means, considering that the average Guatemalan coffee picker earns less than $1,000 US per year. Also, being Fair Trade means that the fair price they receive for their beans will be given to the producers (ie: the community) rather than equate into higher wages for the coffee pickers themselves. The fair price they receive for selling their beans is unlikely to actually cover the annual expense the Finca pays for their Fair Trade Licence. It’s a bit of a vicious circle. Coffee pickers at the Finca receive 25 Quetzales per 100 pounds of coffee cherries picked. (The cherries are what they call the ripened bean before it has been harvested.) That is about $3.40 per 100 pound bag. The problem is that the coffee market is very unstable and fluctuates considerably. It is a wonder that coffee producers make any money at all. The coffee bean is very painstaking to process. It has 5 shells and takes a great deal of time and man power to get to the core or the bean, which is the part we actually drink. A 100 lb bag of cherries will actually only yield about 20-30 lbs of coffee bean, a close to 70% loss once refined.

All that being said, you should still buy Fair Trade Coffee, basically because your dollars have a voice and it is important for us to build consumer demand for Fair Trade products, and that includes everything from coffee to cotton to chocolate and bananas. At the moment, buying FT may not equate to increased wages for the coffee pickers themselves, but the producers will benefit and in Nueva Alianza’s case, that means that the money will go back into the community and benefit the them at large. And also, eventually maybe it will equate into higher wages for the pickers.

Another thing I learned was that Starbucks is not the Antichrist. We saw where they make the Antigua Guatemala blend for Starbucks and the truth is, they are givin’ people jobs, they are supporting the local economy and they are offering comparable wages. I’m not saying you shouldn’t support your local independent coffee guys; I’m not saying that Starbucks couldn’t be doing more, I’m just sayin’ that I am going to stop feeling guilty about those White Chocolate Mochas I drink on Saturday mornings.

What I DID learn was that you should definitely stay away from Nabob coffee. They are terrible and everything you've heard about exploiting their recources and their workers is true. And I would venture a guess to say that Folger’s is the same. If you are buyin Kicking Horse coffee, keep doin’ it. That’s a great Canadaian company doin’ good things.

If you would REALLY like to learn and/or do more, you can find out about buying Fair Trade coffee from this little place in Guatemala called Café Conciencia (Coffee with a Conscience.) A full 100% of proceeds from coffee sales go directly back to the worker-owned communities that grow, process, roast and package it. That way, the communities are earning over five times as much per pound of coffee as they would on the conventional market, and over three times as much as in the mainstream Fair Trade market. This is a real grassroots organization and also, the prices kick some serious ass. One pound of coffee costs $10 US and that INCLUDES shipping and handling.
http://www.cafeconciencia.org/

Also, some of you have expressed an interest in finding out more about the community we worked in, so go here. they have a really awesome website:
http://www.comunidadnuevaalianza.org/index.htm

Bottoms up.

Thank God for Calamine

I have big blotchy patches of pink lotion on my legs. They are soothing the insect bites and large, gaping hiking/tripping wounds which have overtaken my once-beautiful legs. I’ve had a good night’s sleep, downloaded all my pictures, recharged all my batteries and am currently sipping on the most delicious cuba libre, my new-found drinking amore. Made with a $5.00 bottle of Guatemalan rum purchased at the duty free, lots of ice, and a couple of key limes, I believe it to be perfection. Ernest Hemingway would have been proud. Ah yes, it’s great to be home.

So I have been a little out of sorts since my return. A lot of information to process. Not sure what to do with it all, not ready yet to gear up for my trip next week to Belize. Vacillating about going to the gym, dozing on the couch, running some errands, doing nothing at all.

Guatemala was probably the toughest trip I’ve ever done. It was hard-core travelling. I’m thinking it might not be so much my thing, this eco-tourism business. And yet when I look back on my photos, I can’t help but marvel at the lucky and unique experience I have just had. It was satisfying to have contributed a little something to the Finca Community other than my tourist dollars and there's a lot to be said for a little Sweat Equity. But in the end, I am exhausted and feeling more run down than when I left.

But a little resume of my highs and lows for you, my dear readers:

Best use of money: The 20 Quetzales (about $2.50) I spent to pay the kitchen lady to do my laundry! It may have been unethical and encouraged a caste system in the most shameful and abhorrent way, but man! WORTH EVERY PENNY!

Worst use of money: The 90 Quetzales ($12.00) I spent making a three-minute call to my sister to make sure she was coming to pick me up.

Best memory: Hiking volcano Pacaya, seeing the Buena Vista Social Club for .75 cents and leaving the Finca by pushing a ’53 Toyota Land Cruiser down the hill and then hopping in the bed of the truck.

Worst: Last Monday night’s meal of plantains and beans (which I really can’t stomach) after a particularly bad food day; Finding out the truth about Fair Trade Coffee. Fire ants. Nasty, little buggers.

Sorry I: didn't break in my new hikers before leaving for the trip.

Glad I : improved my Spanish, went for a tuk-tuk ride, tackled the swing over the jungle, made new friends, tried new things and lived outside of my comfort zone on a pretty regular basis.

Appreciating the: hot showers, washer, dryer, dishwasher, comfy, comfy bed.

I just spent two hours writing captions for my photos and then accidentally pressed 'Delete Album' when i meant to press "Delete Photo." Too many Cuba Libres, I guess... Ah well, there's always tomorrow.

Run Through the Jungle

We are in San Pedro now after our week at the Finca. And if i wanted to spend my vacation trundling through the jungle with a machete and a hoe, I got my wish!!!! We had a truly unforgettable and formative experience at the Finca. We spent Monday and Tuesday building a new trail. We cleared a path, used machetes to cut wood stakes, hauled bamboo and made stairs!

Wednesday and Thursday were spent picking macadamia nuts and the next time you balk at the cost of macadamia nuts, let me tell you, THEY ARE WORTH EVERY PENNY. Our group of eleven spent 3 hours and picked 203 pounds of macadamia nuts, for which we would have been paid 50 Quetzales. That is the equivalent of roughly about $8. The second day we picked about 175 pounds. Divide that amogst the 11 of us and for 6 or 7 hours of work and I made, what, approximately $1.50? Unlike coffee, the macadamia trees provide nuts year-round, so picking is the livelihood of most everyone on the finca. Families will go out around 7 am and work until noon. Once the nut is picked, they are seperated into different quality categories. The very best are used to make nuts and and the others are used as fertilizer.

It was very interesting to see a sustainable development project. We got a tour of the entire finca, which included all of their revenue projects including bio-deisel, bottled water, coffee and hydroelectricity. It was very primitive but also quite ingenious. We also spent some time with kids and added a number of books to their humble library.

The week was fun. We spent a lot of time playing Headbands and Yahtzee and crib. No TV, no internet, no hot water and electricity every once in a while. Hot sun int he morning and torrential rain in the afternoon. Some great conversation and interesting and unique people. But I am glad to be back in civilization. We saw a myriad of snakes, insects, scorpions, large and freaky spiders, moths and things that probably don't even have names. No mosquitos due to the higher altitude, and therefore no worries of malaria as it turns out, but that's okay, the little black bugs that bore into your skin and made your legs look like carpaccio more than made up for that. Roosters crowing at 4 am, a gander that wouldn't shut up, a whole village-full of early-rising Guatamalens and a bed that was only marginally more comfortable than sleeping on the floor...ah, gotta love it! Capped off this morning by a scene right out of 'Little Miss Sunshine' when we all had to get out and push this old 1953 Toyota pick-up in order to get it started! Hilarious!

All in all, an unforgettable and truly unique experience.

Be home on Monday.

¡Adios Antigua!

Well, it´s our last night in civilization. Tomorrow, we hop on a bus for a 4-hour ride to the middle of nowhere. Today, we had our last morning Spanish class and spent the afternoon shopping and buying school supplies for la finca (the farm.) I think we are in for a rude awakening. We have been spoiled here in this beautiful and affluent city. Tomorrow, we will be eating beans and rice, taking cold showers and shovelling cow shit. Our other tasks at the finca include tree planting, trail maintenece and cow milking! (This is a new one. Apparently, the dairy man needs a vacation.) Something tells me that the novelty will wear off after the first cow or two... I think the finca will be interesting, for the simple fact that they are completely self-sufficient. They make their own food and electricity and have everything they need to survive off the land.

Today, we got to spend a small fortune ($150.00) on school supplies that we will be taking to the students. We also spent an additional $250 on books. I can´t wait to show up with all our things for them! I am a bit trepeditious about this part of our trip. I think it is going to be hard, but rewarding. I am hoping it will help me to have some new insight into what is really important in life. We will see.

So this will be my last post for at least a week. No computer where we are going (I don´t think.) Antigua is crazy tonight. The Guatemalan government just passed a law which forced companies and bosses to double their employees´ salaries and today was payday! I have never seen such long line ups outside the banks before. Security guards with machine guns are everywhere. The streets are teaming with people. It is going to be a party tonight, for sure! We are going out for a team dinner. It has been an interesting week: one of our team members nearly got robbed and is still shaken up about it. (She´s young and doesn´t have much life or travel experience.)Another one feinted last night because she is hypoglycemic. Others are going through life crises and discovering new things about themselves for the very first time. Me, I´m just chillin with my coffee and my Spanish classes and soaking up the ambiance.

So send your good vibes my way next week and have a warm shower and a cold drink with some non-parasitic ice for me!

¡Puchica!

I just had one of the most unforgettable days of my life. I think climbing that volcano can rate as the coolest thing I have ever done in my entire life so far. Nothing could have prepared me for how spectacular it was going to be! And you know, I'm not a very outdoorsy type, but I sure do enjoy the odd adventure or two. And this was definitely that.

First of all, the volcano is still active, which is something I hadn't known previous to going. Secondly, the last time it erupted was in April. Thirdly, it is so active at the moment that we weren't allowed for security reasons to go all the way up to the crater/mouth bit. Right now, there are some villages in the area who are on a 15-minute evacuation order at in case she blows! The lava flows at 3 metres per hour, which is pretty bloody fast when you think about it...

It was a tough trek. The inaugural trip of my new hiking boots was blistery and painful. The incline was steep, the weather hot, the wind strong. There was one bit where the rock (the cooled lava) was so slippery that we had to turn around and come back. It was like trying to climb shale. I packed out (of course) and have quite the battle wound on my leg, but it was SO worth it in the end.

First of all, the closer you get to the summit, the hotter the rock gets. The lava flow from April was STILL HOT UNDERNEATH!!! From April! So there were patches where it felt like you could look right down into the Earth's core. It was spellbinding. And as if that wasn't all cool enough, we turned a corner and there was spewing lava. WE SAW LAVA!! Molten, hot, spewing magma. (God, i love that word. And I always have to say it like Austin Powers...) Does it really get any better than that?!?!?! I couldn't believe it! We got up so close that we could HEAR it flowing. And it looked like a gigantic orange tongue. We put one of our walking sticks into it and it burst into flames! It was ¡puchica! Puchica is my word of the day (It means WOW! in Spanish.) Each step was more spectacular than the next.

And our guide was awesome. He and his adorable, dirty 8 year-old son do the trek 3 times a day. They get about 300 visitors each DAY. We went earlier than most and were so pleased to feel as if we had the whole volcano to ourselves. The vistas were unbelievable and I have some rock star pictures in which I have no doubt never looked worse, but in which I am STANDING NEXT TO MAG-MA so it's all good.

Todo es bueno.

Hey, isn't that...

We went to Ricardo's last night where we paid around 75 cents a person to reserve our seats to see some random Cuban band. We thought it might be kind of nice to get a little of the culture, have a mohito or two and get to know the group a little better. It turned out that the band was THE BUENA VISTA SOCIAL CLUB!!! Or at least members from it! Seventy-five cents for an unforgettable night of the best cuban music in the land!! And i can die happy now that I have heard them perform 'Chan Chan' live from the front row!

Me Gusta Mucho Antigua!

Well, here we are in Antigua! The weather is beautiful and sunny and at 5000 feet, there is next to no humidity which ahs been a welcome surprise

It has taken me a while to find longer than 15 minutes to actually have enough time to compose a proper entry. It has been a jam-packed trip so far. Where to start? Our flight was excellent in the sense that we left Calgary at 1pm and had a lovely 50-minute connection in Houston (who needs to spend any longer in Texas, I mean really?) So although it gave us enough time to get off the plane, grab a bite and walk the two minutes down to the flight, it was not enough time for our luggage to make it. We just got it this morning and are all more than ready for a proper shower and another change of clothes. It’s a trade-off. Either you have a longer flight and arrive with your luggage or a shorter one and wait a day.

We started yesterday morning with a 3-hour walking tour of Antigua by a very competent ex-pat from America who has done some work restoring all the damage done from the various earthquakes and the long civil war which more or less ravaged the country. It’s an interesting little place, and I am feeling awfully proprietary of this city. Antigua is surrounded by 3 volcanoes, Volcano Agua (water) and Volcano Fuego (fire) being the most well-known. Volcano Fuego is an active volcano and we are hoping it will erupt during our stay so that we can see it! The volcanoes protect Antigua from hurricanes, but not from earthquakes (obviously.) Their last earthquake was four-weeks ago and measured 6.8 on the Richter scale. It lasted 49 seconds. Their most damaging earthquake was in 1969. It lasted 35 seconds and measured 7.5 on the Richter. Antigua is a very cosmopolitan city and any thoughts I had of Mayan women walking to the river with large pots on their heads were banished the minute I arrived. I feel like it is the best-kept secret, this little gem of a town, except that it really isn’t! There are a ton of tourists but I love it here all the same.

And the coffee is to die for! I woke up extra early this morning (6:15) to try and get a picture of Volcano Fuego before it was shrouded in cloud. Too late, though! And only on vacation would you get me up that early! I was particularly touched when I ordered my café this morning and the lady remembered me from yesterday! Aw, I’m already a regular!

We were welcomed at the Guatemalan airport by a surprising array of musicians, women in traditional dress handing out gift bags in the most sooped-up airport I have ever seen. We were a little disappointed to find that this welcome wasn’t in fact for us, but for the members of the I.O.C. committee who were here to decide which city would win the 2014 (?) Olympic bid. This was abruptly followed by a power-outage which caused little to no problems at all. I can only imagine a similar incident in Canada or the States, which would have resulted in a complete evacuation of the airport and general pandemonium.

No luggage, but were welcomed into humble and warm surroundings at our homestays.

The afternoon was spent doing one-on-one Spanish lessons, and I am feeling really impressed by the amount of Spanish I have learned so far! When I went to Mexico this time last year, I knew next to no Spanish at all. I had to learn the days of the week, the months, numbers, colours and I understood next to nothing. It was all just a jumble of nonsense. Basico. Now I am understanding about 90%, due in part largely to the Guatemalans, who bless them, speak slowly and clearly. So I am learning more and more every day and more than a little pleased with myself.

So much more to write about , but such little time! 8 hours Spanish lessons today followed by a salsa lesson followed by a night out at Ricardo’s! Tomorrow, 4-hours of Spanish and then we are hiking volacano Pacaya.

More later when I get a chance. Time to go home for lunch.

Hasta luego!

My Travel Essentials

books, camera, sunscreen, money

journal, passport, malaria pills, anti-diarrhea pills

spanish dictionary, ipod, water purification drops, afterbite, mr. clif bar,

pepto bismol, tp, purell, flashlight, band-aids,

insect repellent, sunlight laundry soap

What else does a gal need? I mean, really?

Goodbye Porpoise Spit!

Good bye make-up
Good bye hair dryer
Good bye flat iron
Good bye jewelry

Good bye warm, comfy bed
Good bye air conditioned condo
Good bye car
Good bye parasite-free tap water
Good bye food security
Good bye cold beer, delicious gin, frosty margaritas…

Good bye hot water
Good bye flushing toilets
Good bye toilet paper
Good bye shower
Good bye electricity
Good bye TV
Good bye washer & dryer
Good bye cell phone
Good bye computer
Good bye Facebook!

Goodbye English
Good bye Comfort Zone

Good bye traffic jams
Good bye consumerism
Good bye bill paying

Hello New Culture
Hello New Adventure!
Hello Endless Possibilty!
Hello Guatemala!

Go Big or Go Home

Well, after my terrible, non-existent service at M.E.C., I crossed the road to Coast Mountain Sports where I received effecient, helpful and knowledgeable service. At long last, I found a pair of hiking boots. I was a little bitter about the price, but enough time has passed now that I am just glad the whole ordeal is over. Here is a picture of them in all their glory: Look out Volcano Pacaya, here I come!

Pre-Travel Panic

Today I realized—6 days before my Guatemala departure—that there is nothing worse than being FORCED to go and buy something that you don’t really want in the first place. Today, I had a list the size of my arm of things I need for my trips: Hiking boots, all-purpose jacket, 2 pairs of shorts, rehydration salts, water purification drops, money belt…etc. etc. etc. The size of my arm, I tell ya’…The most, most, MOST important of these items, though were the hiking boots. Importance: high. Priority: NUMBER ONE. The rest, I can sort of do without, but the hikers are a must-have.

And it never fails that when you have money to spend and you need assistance from a knowledgeable and helpful salesperson, there are none to be found. And I am a much better shopper when I am not looking for something specific. I am more the type to stumble across the perfect thing when I am not looking for it, and most often, when I don’t have a dime to my name. But when I go out with wads of cash to spend? No, no. There is nothing to be found… And I am particularly and especially bitter and resentful when the things that I don’t want to buy in the first place cost me an ARM and a leg. Ugly pair of shorts that do nothing for me? 60 dollars. Ugly, clunky pair of hot hiking boots? 220 dollars. Stupid retarded itchy wool hiking socks?15 dollars a pair. Ridiculous!

Now don’t get me wrong, I’ll go out and drop $170 on a hair straightener without batting an eye, but $18.00 for a flashlight?! Forgetaboutit! I’ll just wander around in the jungle in the dark, thanks and spend that $18.00 on a case of beer instead. It’s all about priorities for me. And it’s not that I’m not happy to have these things once I buy them, I would just much rather spend that money on something more fun and much, MUCH more flattering.

And I am also a bargain shopper at heart. I like to comparison shop and make sure that I really am getting the best deal. The problem with that is that I leave in 6 days. No time for that nonsense. No problem, I thought. How hard can it be to find some hikers? Well, considering that it is JULY and no one (apparently) looks for hiking boots in July (which really, doesn’t make sense to me because wouldn’t you think that the summer time is the best time to go hiking?!) and couple that with the fact that I have GIGANTIC feet, it turns out that it is near impossible. And apparently, no one over a size 6 goes outdoors at Mountain Equipment Co-op, so I was invariably left to shop for shorts in the MEN’S department. Isn’t that fun?! So now an ill-fitting pair of ugly, bland shorts that make me look horrible and expose my gnarly knees and cost me WAY more than they should have are sitting neatly folded on top of my suitcase. GAR!

And really, I am so out of my element in stores like Camper’s Village and M.E.C that I wander around like a deer in headlights hoping that someone will take pity on me and give me a personal guided tour of the store. Better yet, can I just hand over my list and have you go and get everything I need and bring it back to me? Here’s my credit card; I’m going across the street for a Frappacinno…And actually, while we’re at it, could someone just please deliver the PERFECT PAIR OF HIKING BOOTS straight to my door? In the perfect size and fit? And make sure they look cool, too, wouldya’?

I'm sure all of this aggro will be worth it in the end, but for now, I just don’t see why I can’t climb Volcano Pacaya in my $5 flip-flops from Mexico…

I'd much rather be at IKEA picking out a new planter and some pretty napkins.